Journal 2
The Wild West Side
10-4-13
On the fifth day of our Gotham class, we went to parts of Midtown, the Upper West Side, Morningside Heights and Harlem. It was an unusually warm and muggy October day, but overall pleasant and primarily rain free once again. I was not overly enthused to see midtown since everyone who comes to the City has seen much of it already. Heading out from Penn Station, we walked over to Times Square, taking note of the pedestrian zones. According to Mike and Meritta, these patches of car-free space were mostly implemented during the Bloomberg era to make Midtown tourist and pedestrian friendly.
According to the Blue Guide, “Before 1904 Times Square, then known as Longacre Square, was dominated by horse exhchanges, carriage factories, stables,
and blacksmiths’ shops” (p. 217). The area was renamed in 1904 when the New YorkTimes set up their headquarters here. Soon after, the ambience of Times Square started to come into how we know it today. Billboards and LED screens were built thanks to O.J. Gude, an advertiser (p. 217). Also during the early part of
the 20th Century, theatres began to spring up on Broadway and New York solidified its reign as one of the best places to view shows. However, starting in the 1930s with the Great Depression and well into the 1970s and 80s, Times Square experienced a tremendous decline. Prostitution, pornography and drugs dominated until a massive effort by Mayor Giuliani returned the City of Lights to its former glory.
Walking along, we made our way over to Rockefeller center, built by John D. Rockefeller during the 1930s. It is the current home of NBC studios where the Today Show and Saturday Night Live are filmed. We noted that the styles of the 14 buildings comprising the complex were a later form of art deco. Although not as opulent as the older style, they were still very beautiful and detailed. Inside the GE building we took note of a huge mural painted on the walls and ceiling. According to Mike, the original was done by Diego Rivera, a Mexican painter who was commissioned by Rockefeller.Rivera happened to be a Marxist and incorporated his beliefs into the mural which prompted an angry Rockefeller to have the entire painting redone.
After taking a few minutes to view the plaza outside and the gift shop, we then made our way over to the Museum of Modern Art on 53rd street between 5th and
6th avenues. The pieces held in the museum are from the 19th and 20th century and were done by adventurous artists at that time. Before we entered the galleries, Mike asked us, “What is the purpose of art?” With that question in mind, we began on the top floor which displayed the oldest works and worked our way down to the more modern works.
We first looked at paintings by Seurat, Van Gogh, Picasso, Monet and Mondrian. Mike explained that these artists were the pioneers of their time because they moved away from traditional art, which was mostly a direct representation of reality. Although their masterpieces were shunned at first, more people began to see the vision and reasoning behind the abstractness of their work.
Moving into more modern times, we viewed paintings by Pollock, Rauschenberg and Jasper Johns. The ones by Pollock, which seemed like random splatters of paint, were the most appealing to me. Although they appeared disordered, there was a very pleasing aesthetic quality which was hard to define. I also liked the work done by Rauschenberg which was also random and bizarre. I was not very fond of Jasper Johns paintings of bulls eyes because they seemed rather ordinary. Mike told us that Johns works were part of pop art, which dealt with everyday objects. We saw more pop art in the Andy Warhol exhibit. To be honest, I did not understand why pictures of Campbell Soup cans were so captivating or artistic.
We ended our tour of the museum by going through a sound exhibit. Some of them were really cool, like the hundreds of circular air vents on the wall that changed in pitch as you walked by it. Heading down to the first floor, we passed by a swinging fan that was dangling like a pendulum from an incredibly high ceiling. As with many things in this museum, I did not get the artistic vision or reason behind this, but it was pretty odd and interesting.
Overall, I really liked the museum and I want to go back some day to really explore the place and learn more about art in general. The class agreed that a general trend in art over time is that it changed from being very literal to very abstract. To answer the question Mike asked in the beginning, I would say that the purpose of art is a combination of expression, soul searching and questioning. Despite the fact that a lot of the artwork baffled us, I think it really provokes people to look deeper and to try and decipher what exactly the artist is trying to say. Art stands at the forefront of culture in New York City as it continues to evolve and pry our minds.
Leaving the museum, we headed over to Hell’s Kitchen for lunch. According to the Blue Guide, an urban legend says that the city got its name from two cops. One remarked that, “This neighborhood is hot as hell” when the other replied, “Hell is cool. This here’s Hell’s Kitchen” (p.226). During the early 20th century, this area was known for gang violence and had a reputation for being incredibly dangerous. After a decline in the 70s like many other places in the City, Hell’s Kitchen started to become gentrified in the 1980s. Today, it is known for the many different types of restaurants that line 9th avenue. (Blue Guide, p. 227)
Mike and Meritta treated us to Thai food at Yum Yum Too. I’m a huge fan of Thai food, so I was very excited to try a new place. I ordered a salad, Thai iced tea, and Panang curry with brown rice. Thankfully the food came quickly because I was starving! I thought all three of my options were very good and similar in taste to one of my favorite Thai restaurants in Queens, BKNY.
After lunch, everyone headed to the subway to take the train to 110th street on the Upper West Side. As we walked up to meet our tour guide for the day, Jim, we passed by a Hungarian pastry shop that was hanging paper angels outside of their shop. We all stopped to put one up in honor of the angels of agape (love).
Jim started our tour at the Cathedral of St. John the Divine on 112th street. I was really blown away by the marvelous sculpture that stood at the park adjacent to the church which was really creepy and cool at the same time. A fairy tale theme seemed to be present throughout. The architecture of the gothic cathedral also captivated me and reminded me of the castles in Harry Potter. We were told that it was built during 1895 to 1911 but never completed because funds ran out. Going inside, I was amazed at the beautiful stained glass windows and mile-high ceiling. The quiet darkness of the church exuded a mystical and peaceful aura.
Next, our tour moved to the gorgeous campus of Columbia University in Morningside Heights. According to the Blue Guide, this neighborhood was the site of a battle during the American Revolution that George Washington won (p. 417). Presently, it is dominated by the University. Sitting on the steps of one of the libraries, Mike decided to host a NYC trivia game to determine the recipient of a special bracelet he got from Don Jorge’s Botanica in East Harlem.
After the game, we visited St. Paul’s chapel on Columbia’s campus which was rather quaint and simple compared to the grand cathedral of St. John the Divine. Moving along, we made our way through the campus and over to Morningside park where we had amazing views of Manhattan near the statue of Carl Schurz.
Climbing down many flights of stairs, we then went to Harlem. Jim explained that the area was settled during the 1650s and was used for farming. The Harlem
rail road was built in 1830s, which attracted a lot of German and Italian immigrants looking for work. Around 1878, there was a massive influx of Jews and by the 1920s Harlem became the second largest Jewish community with 300,000 people. In the 1930s, more African Americans began to arrive and started the Harlem Renaissance, a movement that incorporated jazz, poetry and African American culture. Jim also mentioned that the neighborhood was undergoing significant gentrification which was evident in the newly established luxury buildings we passed by. The demographic of the area is also changing.
One of the final stops of the day was at the Apollo Theatre. According to the Blue Guide, the theatre “opened as Hurtig and Seamon’s New Burlesque Theatre, for whites only, when the neighborhood was white and largely German-Jewish” (p. 440). The theatre was renamed in 1934 when it was taken over by Leo Brecher and Frank Schiffman. As Black residents of the neighborhood began to come in, the theatre began to change as well. Jim noted that the most popular event here is Amateur Night and that it is the best way to experience the Apollo.
Just as it started to rain, we ended our day near the Adam Clayton Powell Jr. State Office Building. We all bid each other hasty farewells and quickly hopped on the train to get back to home.
In the end, I enjoyed this day very much and learned a tremendous amount about the art and culture of the City. My favorite parts of the day were visiting the MoMa, the cathedral of St. John the Divine and Morningside Park. I wasn’t really impressed with what I saw in Harlem because I have been through the area many times when visiting my grandmother who lives in Morningside Heights. I do appreciate the rich history that the west side of Manhattan has to offer and I would like to come back and do some of my own exploring in the area.
On the fifth day of our Gotham class, we went to parts of Midtown, the Upper West Side, Morningside Heights and Harlem. It was an unusually warm and muggy October day, but overall pleasant and primarily rain free once again. I was not overly enthused to see midtown since everyone who comes to the City has seen much of it already. Heading out from Penn Station, we walked over to Times Square, taking note of the pedestrian zones. According to Mike and Meritta, these patches of car-free space were mostly implemented during the Bloomberg era to make Midtown tourist and pedestrian friendly.
According to the Blue Guide, “Before 1904 Times Square, then known as Longacre Square, was dominated by horse exhchanges, carriage factories, stables,
and blacksmiths’ shops” (p. 217). The area was renamed in 1904 when the New YorkTimes set up their headquarters here. Soon after, the ambience of Times Square started to come into how we know it today. Billboards and LED screens were built thanks to O.J. Gude, an advertiser (p. 217). Also during the early part of
the 20th Century, theatres began to spring up on Broadway and New York solidified its reign as one of the best places to view shows. However, starting in the 1930s with the Great Depression and well into the 1970s and 80s, Times Square experienced a tremendous decline. Prostitution, pornography and drugs dominated until a massive effort by Mayor Giuliani returned the City of Lights to its former glory.
Walking along, we made our way over to Rockefeller center, built by John D. Rockefeller during the 1930s. It is the current home of NBC studios where the Today Show and Saturday Night Live are filmed. We noted that the styles of the 14 buildings comprising the complex were a later form of art deco. Although not as opulent as the older style, they were still very beautiful and detailed. Inside the GE building we took note of a huge mural painted on the walls and ceiling. According to Mike, the original was done by Diego Rivera, a Mexican painter who was commissioned by Rockefeller.Rivera happened to be a Marxist and incorporated his beliefs into the mural which prompted an angry Rockefeller to have the entire painting redone.
After taking a few minutes to view the plaza outside and the gift shop, we then made our way over to the Museum of Modern Art on 53rd street between 5th and
6th avenues. The pieces held in the museum are from the 19th and 20th century and were done by adventurous artists at that time. Before we entered the galleries, Mike asked us, “What is the purpose of art?” With that question in mind, we began on the top floor which displayed the oldest works and worked our way down to the more modern works.
We first looked at paintings by Seurat, Van Gogh, Picasso, Monet and Mondrian. Mike explained that these artists were the pioneers of their time because they moved away from traditional art, which was mostly a direct representation of reality. Although their masterpieces were shunned at first, more people began to see the vision and reasoning behind the abstractness of their work.
Moving into more modern times, we viewed paintings by Pollock, Rauschenberg and Jasper Johns. The ones by Pollock, which seemed like random splatters of paint, were the most appealing to me. Although they appeared disordered, there was a very pleasing aesthetic quality which was hard to define. I also liked the work done by Rauschenberg which was also random and bizarre. I was not very fond of Jasper Johns paintings of bulls eyes because they seemed rather ordinary. Mike told us that Johns works were part of pop art, which dealt with everyday objects. We saw more pop art in the Andy Warhol exhibit. To be honest, I did not understand why pictures of Campbell Soup cans were so captivating or artistic.
We ended our tour of the museum by going through a sound exhibit. Some of them were really cool, like the hundreds of circular air vents on the wall that changed in pitch as you walked by it. Heading down to the first floor, we passed by a swinging fan that was dangling like a pendulum from an incredibly high ceiling. As with many things in this museum, I did not get the artistic vision or reason behind this, but it was pretty odd and interesting.
Overall, I really liked the museum and I want to go back some day to really explore the place and learn more about art in general. The class agreed that a general trend in art over time is that it changed from being very literal to very abstract. To answer the question Mike asked in the beginning, I would say that the purpose of art is a combination of expression, soul searching and questioning. Despite the fact that a lot of the artwork baffled us, I think it really provokes people to look deeper and to try and decipher what exactly the artist is trying to say. Art stands at the forefront of culture in New York City as it continues to evolve and pry our minds.
Leaving the museum, we headed over to Hell’s Kitchen for lunch. According to the Blue Guide, an urban legend says that the city got its name from two cops. One remarked that, “This neighborhood is hot as hell” when the other replied, “Hell is cool. This here’s Hell’s Kitchen” (p.226). During the early 20th century, this area was known for gang violence and had a reputation for being incredibly dangerous. After a decline in the 70s like many other places in the City, Hell’s Kitchen started to become gentrified in the 1980s. Today, it is known for the many different types of restaurants that line 9th avenue. (Blue Guide, p. 227)
Mike and Meritta treated us to Thai food at Yum Yum Too. I’m a huge fan of Thai food, so I was very excited to try a new place. I ordered a salad, Thai iced tea, and Panang curry with brown rice. Thankfully the food came quickly because I was starving! I thought all three of my options were very good and similar in taste to one of my favorite Thai restaurants in Queens, BKNY.
After lunch, everyone headed to the subway to take the train to 110th street on the Upper West Side. As we walked up to meet our tour guide for the day, Jim, we passed by a Hungarian pastry shop that was hanging paper angels outside of their shop. We all stopped to put one up in honor of the angels of agape (love).
Jim started our tour at the Cathedral of St. John the Divine on 112th street. I was really blown away by the marvelous sculpture that stood at the park adjacent to the church which was really creepy and cool at the same time. A fairy tale theme seemed to be present throughout. The architecture of the gothic cathedral also captivated me and reminded me of the castles in Harry Potter. We were told that it was built during 1895 to 1911 but never completed because funds ran out. Going inside, I was amazed at the beautiful stained glass windows and mile-high ceiling. The quiet darkness of the church exuded a mystical and peaceful aura.
Next, our tour moved to the gorgeous campus of Columbia University in Morningside Heights. According to the Blue Guide, this neighborhood was the site of a battle during the American Revolution that George Washington won (p. 417). Presently, it is dominated by the University. Sitting on the steps of one of the libraries, Mike decided to host a NYC trivia game to determine the recipient of a special bracelet he got from Don Jorge’s Botanica in East Harlem.
After the game, we visited St. Paul’s chapel on Columbia’s campus which was rather quaint and simple compared to the grand cathedral of St. John the Divine. Moving along, we made our way through the campus and over to Morningside park where we had amazing views of Manhattan near the statue of Carl Schurz.
Climbing down many flights of stairs, we then went to Harlem. Jim explained that the area was settled during the 1650s and was used for farming. The Harlem
rail road was built in 1830s, which attracted a lot of German and Italian immigrants looking for work. Around 1878, there was a massive influx of Jews and by the 1920s Harlem became the second largest Jewish community with 300,000 people. In the 1930s, more African Americans began to arrive and started the Harlem Renaissance, a movement that incorporated jazz, poetry and African American culture. Jim also mentioned that the neighborhood was undergoing significant gentrification which was evident in the newly established luxury buildings we passed by. The demographic of the area is also changing.
One of the final stops of the day was at the Apollo Theatre. According to the Blue Guide, the theatre “opened as Hurtig and Seamon’s New Burlesque Theatre, for whites only, when the neighborhood was white and largely German-Jewish” (p. 440). The theatre was renamed in 1934 when it was taken over by Leo Brecher and Frank Schiffman. As Black residents of the neighborhood began to come in, the theatre began to change as well. Jim noted that the most popular event here is Amateur Night and that it is the best way to experience the Apollo.
Just as it started to rain, we ended our day near the Adam Clayton Powell Jr. State Office Building. We all bid each other hasty farewells and quickly hopped on the train to get back to home.
In the end, I enjoyed this day very much and learned a tremendous amount about the art and culture of the City. My favorite parts of the day were visiting the MoMa, the cathedral of St. John the Divine and Morningside Park. I wasn’t really impressed with what I saw in Harlem because I have been through the area many times when visiting my grandmother who lives in Morningside Heights. I do appreciate the rich history that the west side of Manhattan has to offer and I would like to come back and do some of my own exploring in the area.
On a side note, the day after this class I went back to midtown for the Koreatown Festival! My friend Veda, who does tae kwon do, was part of the parade and I went out to support her along with my other friend Kate. There were loads of vendors selling goods and of course food! I had ddukbokki (rice
cakes in a spicy sauce), Korean scallion pancakes, kimchee, and of course Korean BBQ marinated beef. In a café in K-Town, my friends and I shared a dessert called patbingsu which consists of shaved ice, condensed milk, ice cream and bits of mango (or other fruit toppings). I loved the traditional Korean dancing, martial arts performances, music, food, and the beautiful hanboks. Overall, I had another great day in the city! |
|
Lower Manhattan and the Captivating Chelsea
10-11-13
Today marked the second to last class of our Gotham adventure and we spent it in the Financial District and Chelsea. The day started off as usual with my bus ride to the train which then took me to Penn Station. On the way, I noticed a girl in a costume from a Japanese anime I used to watch when I was younger, Sailor Moon! It then hit me that today was the start of New York Comic Con. I’ve wanted to go forever, but I always seem to forget to buy tickets…Anyway, when I arrived at Penn Station, I saw tons of people cosplaying as their favorite characters from anime, manga, and comic book series.
After everyone arrived at our meeting spot, we headed on the downtown 2 train to the Financial District. Exiting the train, we first noted the Woolworth building. The building was done in a very extravagant gothic style that seemed to mesh in quite well with the gloomy and bleak sky. Mike explained that the Woolworth building was built in 1913 and stood as the tallest building until 1930, when it was overtaken by the Chrysler building.
We then headed over to City Hall where we met with our tour guide Deidre. She began by giving us a brief history of New York itself and how the first City Hall came to be thanks to the Dutch in 1653. By 1800, well after the American Revolution, the nation’s capital moved to Washington D.C., and a new City Hall was in the plans for New York. A competition was held in 1802 to decide who would construct the building. The winners were Joseph Francois Mangin and John McComb Jr., who received a mere $350 to carry out the plan. It was completed and opened in 1812.
The exterior of the building has a very elegant and powerful feel to it. It consists of various architectural styles, although it seemed primarily federal and neoclassical. Touches of French Renaissance were seen in the small details such as the floral swags. Roman arches and Corinthian columns decorate the building’s prominent entrance. This desire for beautiful architecture carried well into the 20th Century and became known as the City Beautiful Movement. The goal was to inspire new immigrants in the philosophy of democracy and freedom.
Deidre noted that when Mangin and McComb designed the building, they had marble for the front and brownstone for the back, sides, and lower parts. Recently however, the marble and brownstone has been replaced with limestone and red granite.
Moving inside the building, we were met with a bronze statue of George Washington done by the Frenchman, Houdon. Washington looked very proud in his contemporary clothes and his sheathed sword at his side. Next to him in the center of the entrance, was a gorgeous floating staircase and above us, was a magnificent dome, both with the same intricacies as the outside.
Heading upstairs, we entered the Governor’s Room where we saw many paintings of presidents, governors and mayors. This room was also very grandiose and had historical furniture, like the desks used by George Washington and Fiorello LaGuardia.
Lastly, Deidre took us into the City Council Chamber which was originally two separate court rooms. On the ceilings were lovely, inspirational murals and to the side, was a statue of Thomas Jefferson.
After thanking our tour guide, we left City Hall and headed over to St. Paul’s Chapel. According to the Blue Guide, this church has been in existence since the Colonial days and served as the worshiping center for British soliders (p.77). The Georgian architectural style was noted here, a style which we had not seen before. The inside was very charming and had many tributes to 9-11. It also had the original pew where George Washington used to sit.
Exiting by the back of the chapel through a graveyard, we briefly had a talk about our memories of the September 11th terrorist attack on the World Trade Center before making our way over to the 9-11 memorial. The day when it happened, I remember being in my 4th grade class doing a writing assignment. A lot of students went home early, but I stayed the entire day and was picked up by my babysitter as usual since my parents worked in Manhattan. I remember being pretty calm since I knew my parents didn’t work in that area of the City and that they would be fine. I did not lose anyone close to me in the attacks, but I still feel a great deal of sadness when I think back to that day.
As we walked by, I noticed that this part of Manhattan was very much unlike the other parts that we went to. It was predominantly international style buildings and there was a lot of construction and tourists. I also noticed a great deal of police presence in the area. After going through security ourselves, we finally made it to the memorial. The place was pretty packed with people but it did not take away from the aura of serenity. The waterfall pools symbolizing the north and south towers were very poignant. According to the memorial’s website, these waterfalls are the largest manmade. (http://www.911memorial.org/about-memorial) In addition, I also thought the story of the Survivor Tree was a pretty amazing. The new, One World Trade Center building was very impressive and exuded confidence and patriotism. Overall, I enjoyed my first ever visit to the World Trade Center and I would love to come back and bring my friends and family to see it when the museum opens.
After this, we went to Trinity Church, one of the most famous and wealthiest in the City (Blue Guide, p. 65). The exterior was dark and very gothic looking and the inside was no different. Outside on the courtyard was a strange sculpture that looked like tree roots, perhaps serving as a reminder that we will all return to the ground someday. Some notable people buried on the grounds are Alexander Hamilton and William Bradford (Blue Guide, p. 66).
Walking down Broadway, we passed by the New York Stock Exchange building a giant bull, and Bowling Green Park on our way to the Alexander Hamilton Customs House. According to Mike, this was the place where goods coming into the country by ship had to pass. Today, it is now home to the Museum of the American Indian. Unfortunately, as this is a federal building, it was not open due to the government shutdown. Outside the building were street vendors selling t-shirts, scarves, jewelry and phone covers. An interesting fact about Bowling Green Park, that Mike and Meritta told us, was that it was the place where King George’s statue was taken down a few days after the American Revolution was won.
Next, we visited Battery Park which Mike explained was named after the cannons that used to be here to defend the land from incoming ships many years ago. Most notable here is Castle Clinton, a fort designed by John McComb Jr., and built from 1808 to 1811 (Blue Guide, p. 48). The views of the water and the Statue of Liberty were spectacular.
Finally, we headed over to Chelsea Market by train to have lunch. This was my first time going into this place although I have heard of it before. I decided to go to a Thai place inside called Chelsea Thai Wholesale and ordered a chicken Pad Thai. In less than 10 minutes, I got my noodles and was eager to dig in! Sadly, I was a bit disappointed by the Pad Thai. I think it needed more tamarind and fish sauce, but there was a lot of tofu and chicken, which I was pleased with. Overall, I don’t think I will come here again for Thai since it wasn’t worth the price. (I paid almost $10!)
Afterwards, we all headed over to the High Line, a park built on an old freight train track. Originally, the tracks were on ground level which resulted in many deaths of pedestrians. The City tried to solve the problem by having horsemen ride in front of the train waving flags to get people out the way (Blue Guide, p.188).With the birth of the automobiles, the trains were no longer needed.
I have always wanted to walk on the highline and was very excited to do so today! The views were very nice and I liked the plants and artwork found throughout. I think this was a great way to preserve some of the history and culture of New York.
Getting off the highline, Mike took us gallery hopping in Chelsea. None of us were exactly thrilled to go into the exhibits because we didn’t understand the concepts of the artists. One gallery that I liked was called Post Culture and had very strange pieces. Some were splashes of color that seemed messy but were pretty to look at. I'm not sure who the artist is because I did not see a name anywhere. I also liked the gallery by Joseph Smith which had square canvases painted in different colors. It seemed quite ordinary to me, but I liked the colors and the brushstrokes. We also went into an art book store. Most of the things in there were wild and eccentric but I managed to find a funny book of an artist called Peekasso who used LEGO pieces in his art.
In all, I thought this day was just OK. I liked seeing some of the churches as well as visiting City Hall and the 9-11 Memorial. I’m not sure if I’ll come back to view more galleries though.
Today marked the second to last class of our Gotham adventure and we spent it in the Financial District and Chelsea. The day started off as usual with my bus ride to the train which then took me to Penn Station. On the way, I noticed a girl in a costume from a Japanese anime I used to watch when I was younger, Sailor Moon! It then hit me that today was the start of New York Comic Con. I’ve wanted to go forever, but I always seem to forget to buy tickets…Anyway, when I arrived at Penn Station, I saw tons of people cosplaying as their favorite characters from anime, manga, and comic book series.
After everyone arrived at our meeting spot, we headed on the downtown 2 train to the Financial District. Exiting the train, we first noted the Woolworth building. The building was done in a very extravagant gothic style that seemed to mesh in quite well with the gloomy and bleak sky. Mike explained that the Woolworth building was built in 1913 and stood as the tallest building until 1930, when it was overtaken by the Chrysler building.
We then headed over to City Hall where we met with our tour guide Deidre. She began by giving us a brief history of New York itself and how the first City Hall came to be thanks to the Dutch in 1653. By 1800, well after the American Revolution, the nation’s capital moved to Washington D.C., and a new City Hall was in the plans for New York. A competition was held in 1802 to decide who would construct the building. The winners were Joseph Francois Mangin and John McComb Jr., who received a mere $350 to carry out the plan. It was completed and opened in 1812.
The exterior of the building has a very elegant and powerful feel to it. It consists of various architectural styles, although it seemed primarily federal and neoclassical. Touches of French Renaissance were seen in the small details such as the floral swags. Roman arches and Corinthian columns decorate the building’s prominent entrance. This desire for beautiful architecture carried well into the 20th Century and became known as the City Beautiful Movement. The goal was to inspire new immigrants in the philosophy of democracy and freedom.
Deidre noted that when Mangin and McComb designed the building, they had marble for the front and brownstone for the back, sides, and lower parts. Recently however, the marble and brownstone has been replaced with limestone and red granite.
Moving inside the building, we were met with a bronze statue of George Washington done by the Frenchman, Houdon. Washington looked very proud in his contemporary clothes and his sheathed sword at his side. Next to him in the center of the entrance, was a gorgeous floating staircase and above us, was a magnificent dome, both with the same intricacies as the outside.
Heading upstairs, we entered the Governor’s Room where we saw many paintings of presidents, governors and mayors. This room was also very grandiose and had historical furniture, like the desks used by George Washington and Fiorello LaGuardia.
Lastly, Deidre took us into the City Council Chamber which was originally two separate court rooms. On the ceilings were lovely, inspirational murals and to the side, was a statue of Thomas Jefferson.
After thanking our tour guide, we left City Hall and headed over to St. Paul’s Chapel. According to the Blue Guide, this church has been in existence since the Colonial days and served as the worshiping center for British soliders (p.77). The Georgian architectural style was noted here, a style which we had not seen before. The inside was very charming and had many tributes to 9-11. It also had the original pew where George Washington used to sit.
Exiting by the back of the chapel through a graveyard, we briefly had a talk about our memories of the September 11th terrorist attack on the World Trade Center before making our way over to the 9-11 memorial. The day when it happened, I remember being in my 4th grade class doing a writing assignment. A lot of students went home early, but I stayed the entire day and was picked up by my babysitter as usual since my parents worked in Manhattan. I remember being pretty calm since I knew my parents didn’t work in that area of the City and that they would be fine. I did not lose anyone close to me in the attacks, but I still feel a great deal of sadness when I think back to that day.
As we walked by, I noticed that this part of Manhattan was very much unlike the other parts that we went to. It was predominantly international style buildings and there was a lot of construction and tourists. I also noticed a great deal of police presence in the area. After going through security ourselves, we finally made it to the memorial. The place was pretty packed with people but it did not take away from the aura of serenity. The waterfall pools symbolizing the north and south towers were very poignant. According to the memorial’s website, these waterfalls are the largest manmade. (http://www.911memorial.org/about-memorial) In addition, I also thought the story of the Survivor Tree was a pretty amazing. The new, One World Trade Center building was very impressive and exuded confidence and patriotism. Overall, I enjoyed my first ever visit to the World Trade Center and I would love to come back and bring my friends and family to see it when the museum opens.
After this, we went to Trinity Church, one of the most famous and wealthiest in the City (Blue Guide, p. 65). The exterior was dark and very gothic looking and the inside was no different. Outside on the courtyard was a strange sculpture that looked like tree roots, perhaps serving as a reminder that we will all return to the ground someday. Some notable people buried on the grounds are Alexander Hamilton and William Bradford (Blue Guide, p. 66).
Walking down Broadway, we passed by the New York Stock Exchange building a giant bull, and Bowling Green Park on our way to the Alexander Hamilton Customs House. According to Mike, this was the place where goods coming into the country by ship had to pass. Today, it is now home to the Museum of the American Indian. Unfortunately, as this is a federal building, it was not open due to the government shutdown. Outside the building were street vendors selling t-shirts, scarves, jewelry and phone covers. An interesting fact about Bowling Green Park, that Mike and Meritta told us, was that it was the place where King George’s statue was taken down a few days after the American Revolution was won.
Next, we visited Battery Park which Mike explained was named after the cannons that used to be here to defend the land from incoming ships many years ago. Most notable here is Castle Clinton, a fort designed by John McComb Jr., and built from 1808 to 1811 (Blue Guide, p. 48). The views of the water and the Statue of Liberty were spectacular.
Finally, we headed over to Chelsea Market by train to have lunch. This was my first time going into this place although I have heard of it before. I decided to go to a Thai place inside called Chelsea Thai Wholesale and ordered a chicken Pad Thai. In less than 10 minutes, I got my noodles and was eager to dig in! Sadly, I was a bit disappointed by the Pad Thai. I think it needed more tamarind and fish sauce, but there was a lot of tofu and chicken, which I was pleased with. Overall, I don’t think I will come here again for Thai since it wasn’t worth the price. (I paid almost $10!)
Afterwards, we all headed over to the High Line, a park built on an old freight train track. Originally, the tracks were on ground level which resulted in many deaths of pedestrians. The City tried to solve the problem by having horsemen ride in front of the train waving flags to get people out the way (Blue Guide, p.188).With the birth of the automobiles, the trains were no longer needed.
I have always wanted to walk on the highline and was very excited to do so today! The views were very nice and I liked the plants and artwork found throughout. I think this was a great way to preserve some of the history and culture of New York.
Getting off the highline, Mike took us gallery hopping in Chelsea. None of us were exactly thrilled to go into the exhibits because we didn’t understand the concepts of the artists. One gallery that I liked was called Post Culture and had very strange pieces. Some were splashes of color that seemed messy but were pretty to look at. I'm not sure who the artist is because I did not see a name anywhere. I also liked the gallery by Joseph Smith which had square canvases painted in different colors. It seemed quite ordinary to me, but I liked the colors and the brushstrokes. We also went into an art book store. Most of the things in there were wild and eccentric but I managed to find a funny book of an artist called Peekasso who used LEGO pieces in his art.
In all, I thought this day was just OK. I liked seeing some of the churches as well as visiting City Hall and the 9-11 Memorial. I’m not sure if I’ll come back to view more galleries though.
Immigrant New York
10-18-13
Today was the final Gotham class, and we spent it in the Lower East Side of Manhattan. After meeting for the very last time at Penn Station, we headed off to Essex Street via the downtown F train. Getting off the subway, Mike and Meritta explained that this area was primarily settled by immigrants from Ireland, Germany, and Italy throughout the long history of New York. As a result, it has a variety of ethnic enclaves. By 1900, it was the most densely populated place in the world due to the prevalence of tenements, which were tiny, substandard apartments that served as the homes for immigrants.
We first went through the Essex Street Market. This giant store opened in 1940 and replaced the days of pushcart peddlers that dominated during the19th century. It seemed like an ordinary market to me, but I did see a hug selection of ethnic cooking ingredients which I certainly would not find in m local Key Food. Now I know where to go if I’m trying a new Asian recipe and can’t find the right things.
After this, we met our tour guide Jim, who was the same guy that gave us the tour of Harlem and Morningside Heights. On our way over to Economy Candy store, he told us that this area was primarily farm land and that many of the streets are named after the families that owned them back in the old days. Arriving at the candy shop, we all took a quick break to satisfy our sweet tooth. I was very impressed by the selection although I didn’t buy anything. Every candy imaginable was there! I’m definitely bringing my friends here to check it out. While we waited for everyone to finish getting their candy, Jim mentioned that if buildings have outside fire escapes, then it was built before 1960.
Walking around the neighborhood, Jim pointed out the numerous Housing Projects that have sprung up around this area. The goal for these building was to reduce density and provide housing for the poor. From our vantage point under a train station by the Williamsburg bridge, Jim talked about various sites in Brooklyn that were worth noting. For example, a Domino Sugar factory in Williamsburg used to produce the largest producer in the US. He also mentioned that the bridge is known as “Jew Highway” because of the large Jewish populations on either side of it.
Next, we walked over to the Bialystoker Synagogue which was originally a Christian church built in 1826. It was known as an AME church because it housed both the Methodist and Episcopal faiths. It became a synagogue in 1905 and has Methodist style architecture.
Then, we went to the Arnold Toynbee House, which was an old tenement building that was also a settlement house. A settlement house was one of the first places that new immigrants to the country would go to because it provided them with a means to learn the culture, and get jobs and housing. It was essential in getting them to acclimate and gain a foothold.
We also went to the Henry Street Settlement. Here, Jim mentioned Lillian Wald, a nurse and human rights activist who pioneered the need for visiting nurses and nursing schools. She was also the person who founded the Henry Street Settlement. Today, the organization helps enrich the lives of Lower East Side residents by providing both social, educational and health benefits.
At this point, our tour with Jim had ended and Mike and Meritta set us loose to explore Canal Street and the wonders of Chinatown. According to the Blue Guide, Chinatown is one of the few neighborhoods that is resisting gentrification and is actually growing (p.107). I have been to Chinatown several times before, and it was just as I remembered: crowded and loud. I went to a Chinese pastry shop and bought a melon cake, which is one of my favorites (although I really love all of them). In the past, I have bought many trinkets from the vendors here such as costume jewelry, and a pretty oriental fan with lace decals. I didn’t see anything that quite caught my attention so I headed over to Congee Village, where the class was to meet to have lunch.
I was pretty excited to try authentic Chinese food, and this restaurant did not disappoint! I loved all the options that came to our table including the garlic chicken, the sesame chicken, and especially the Singapore noodles! I will definitely be coming back here.
Last on our agenda for the day, we headed to the Tenement museum. According to the Blue Guide, “This museum, a former tenement, was founded in 1988 to preserve the heritage of the nation’s immigrants, honoring the millions who lived on the Lower East Side and to other immigrant ghettos” (p.122). After splitting into two groups, our tour guide Daryl took us inside to a classroom and explained to us what we would be doing. We were going to experience a living history tour which involved a trained actor in costume, who would reenact a 14 year old girl named Victoria Confino, a Sephardic Jew.
Daryl explained that immigrants coming into the country had to go through a line check as they came in through Ellis Island. A pin number was placed on every person that came through and they were shuffled very quickly and checked for health problems, especially pink eye. Ironically, the inspectors used the same button hook to check everyone and did not sterilize it. People who did not get through inspection were forced to stay at a hospital on the Island and their families were not allowed to stay behind. Daryl then went into the same talk about settlement houses as Jim did. He included that the buildings had a “5-4-3-2” style. There were 5 floors, 4 apartments per floor, 3 rooms per apartment, and 2 toilets per floor.
We then went to the building where we were to meet Victoria. We pretended to be a Jewish Russian family (I happened to be the Grandmother of the family). Stepping inside the apartment, I was amazed at how tiny it was. The kitchen was in the center, the sleeping room on the left and the living room was on the right. Vitoria was very bubbly and friendly and invited us to sit down. She told us about her family, which was primarily formed of her younger brothers. They were forced to come here because of a war in her home country which would have drafted one of her brothers. Her parents, not wanting to lose him, came here. Victoria told us she used to go to school when she first came, but was placed in kindergarten and felt embarrassed. Since then, she has worked, making aprons. She mentioned that the neighborhood and this building were mostly filled with Russian Jews like us. Although she was very homesick, Victoria made us feel very welcomed in her home.
I learned a lot about the lifestyle of immigrants who came to the country during the 20th century through this tour and it was one of the best experiences of this Gotham Class. Overall, this day went by pretty quickly, but it was nonetheless, just as fun and rewarding.
Today was the final Gotham class, and we spent it in the Lower East Side of Manhattan. After meeting for the very last time at Penn Station, we headed off to Essex Street via the downtown F train. Getting off the subway, Mike and Meritta explained that this area was primarily settled by immigrants from Ireland, Germany, and Italy throughout the long history of New York. As a result, it has a variety of ethnic enclaves. By 1900, it was the most densely populated place in the world due to the prevalence of tenements, which were tiny, substandard apartments that served as the homes for immigrants.
We first went through the Essex Street Market. This giant store opened in 1940 and replaced the days of pushcart peddlers that dominated during the19th century. It seemed like an ordinary market to me, but I did see a hug selection of ethnic cooking ingredients which I certainly would not find in m local Key Food. Now I know where to go if I’m trying a new Asian recipe and can’t find the right things.
After this, we met our tour guide Jim, who was the same guy that gave us the tour of Harlem and Morningside Heights. On our way over to Economy Candy store, he told us that this area was primarily farm land and that many of the streets are named after the families that owned them back in the old days. Arriving at the candy shop, we all took a quick break to satisfy our sweet tooth. I was very impressed by the selection although I didn’t buy anything. Every candy imaginable was there! I’m definitely bringing my friends here to check it out. While we waited for everyone to finish getting their candy, Jim mentioned that if buildings have outside fire escapes, then it was built before 1960.
Walking around the neighborhood, Jim pointed out the numerous Housing Projects that have sprung up around this area. The goal for these building was to reduce density and provide housing for the poor. From our vantage point under a train station by the Williamsburg bridge, Jim talked about various sites in Brooklyn that were worth noting. For example, a Domino Sugar factory in Williamsburg used to produce the largest producer in the US. He also mentioned that the bridge is known as “Jew Highway” because of the large Jewish populations on either side of it.
Next, we walked over to the Bialystoker Synagogue which was originally a Christian church built in 1826. It was known as an AME church because it housed both the Methodist and Episcopal faiths. It became a synagogue in 1905 and has Methodist style architecture.
Then, we went to the Arnold Toynbee House, which was an old tenement building that was also a settlement house. A settlement house was one of the first places that new immigrants to the country would go to because it provided them with a means to learn the culture, and get jobs and housing. It was essential in getting them to acclimate and gain a foothold.
We also went to the Henry Street Settlement. Here, Jim mentioned Lillian Wald, a nurse and human rights activist who pioneered the need for visiting nurses and nursing schools. She was also the person who founded the Henry Street Settlement. Today, the organization helps enrich the lives of Lower East Side residents by providing both social, educational and health benefits.
At this point, our tour with Jim had ended and Mike and Meritta set us loose to explore Canal Street and the wonders of Chinatown. According to the Blue Guide, Chinatown is one of the few neighborhoods that is resisting gentrification and is actually growing (p.107). I have been to Chinatown several times before, and it was just as I remembered: crowded and loud. I went to a Chinese pastry shop and bought a melon cake, which is one of my favorites (although I really love all of them). In the past, I have bought many trinkets from the vendors here such as costume jewelry, and a pretty oriental fan with lace decals. I didn’t see anything that quite caught my attention so I headed over to Congee Village, where the class was to meet to have lunch.
I was pretty excited to try authentic Chinese food, and this restaurant did not disappoint! I loved all the options that came to our table including the garlic chicken, the sesame chicken, and especially the Singapore noodles! I will definitely be coming back here.
Last on our agenda for the day, we headed to the Tenement museum. According to the Blue Guide, “This museum, a former tenement, was founded in 1988 to preserve the heritage of the nation’s immigrants, honoring the millions who lived on the Lower East Side and to other immigrant ghettos” (p.122). After splitting into two groups, our tour guide Daryl took us inside to a classroom and explained to us what we would be doing. We were going to experience a living history tour which involved a trained actor in costume, who would reenact a 14 year old girl named Victoria Confino, a Sephardic Jew.
Daryl explained that immigrants coming into the country had to go through a line check as they came in through Ellis Island. A pin number was placed on every person that came through and they were shuffled very quickly and checked for health problems, especially pink eye. Ironically, the inspectors used the same button hook to check everyone and did not sterilize it. People who did not get through inspection were forced to stay at a hospital on the Island and their families were not allowed to stay behind. Daryl then went into the same talk about settlement houses as Jim did. He included that the buildings had a “5-4-3-2” style. There were 5 floors, 4 apartments per floor, 3 rooms per apartment, and 2 toilets per floor.
We then went to the building where we were to meet Victoria. We pretended to be a Jewish Russian family (I happened to be the Grandmother of the family). Stepping inside the apartment, I was amazed at how tiny it was. The kitchen was in the center, the sleeping room on the left and the living room was on the right. Vitoria was very bubbly and friendly and invited us to sit down. She told us about her family, which was primarily formed of her younger brothers. They were forced to come here because of a war in her home country which would have drafted one of her brothers. Her parents, not wanting to lose him, came here. Victoria told us she used to go to school when she first came, but was placed in kindergarten and felt embarrassed. Since then, she has worked, making aprons. She mentioned that the neighborhood and this building were mostly filled with Russian Jews like us. Although she was very homesick, Victoria made us feel very welcomed in her home.
I learned a lot about the lifestyle of immigrants who came to the country during the 20th century through this tour and it was one of the best experiences of this Gotham Class. Overall, this day went by pretty quickly, but it was nonetheless, just as fun and rewarding.
Final Remarks
This class was an amazing experience, unlike any other class I have taken in my academic career. The days were long, but fun and informative (and thankfully rain free!). My appreciation for NY has expanded and I am even more proud to be a New Yorker. I feel more knowledgeable about the people who live here and what the cultures are really like. I can't wait to take my friends and family to the places I've visited. There was something from every day that really interested me. From the first day, it was going to Roosevelt Island, taking the tram, and seeing 5Pointz. For Brooklyn, it was crossing the Brooklyn Bridge and the Transit Museum. In the Villages, I enjoyed learning about the Gay Rights Movement and experiencing the unique culture. El Barrio was one of my top favorites because we got to walk though the entire length of Central Park! On the West Side, I liked seeing the pretty Cathedral of St. John the Divine and the views from Morningside Park. In Lower Manhattan and Chelsea, I was thrilled to see the WTC memorial, the High Line and City Hall. In our final class, the Tenement museum was definitely an experience to remember!
I've gained more knowledge in this class than all my other classes combined. It means more to me because it is stuff about the City where I live. My impressions of NY before this class were similar to what I got out of this class. I know that NYC is a place of complexity and contradictions, and it has a dynamic spirit that continues to change with time. Nowhere else in the world can possibly come close to the richness and boldness of Manhattan and the outer boroughs. I understand why so many people want a piece of this place!
Overall, I will miss this class but this is not the end of my NY adventure!
I've gained more knowledge in this class than all my other classes combined. It means more to me because it is stuff about the City where I live. My impressions of NY before this class were similar to what I got out of this class. I know that NYC is a place of complexity and contradictions, and it has a dynamic spirit that continues to change with time. Nowhere else in the world can possibly come close to the richness and boldness of Manhattan and the outer boroughs. I understand why so many people want a piece of this place!
Overall, I will miss this class but this is not the end of my NY adventure!